Paddling from Adventure Bay to Cloudy Bay

Four friends spent a blissful day in early Autumn Kayaking from Adventure to Cloudy Bay along Bruny Island's extraordinary Southern Coast. Here Stephen Karpeles talks through the Natural wonders of a memorable day in the wild.

We started our paddle at 8am in Adventure Bay, greeted by the morning sunrise and stillness. But as we rounded the headland made south along the fabled Fluted Cape the trip took on an epic scale. These are spectacularly grand and imposing sea-cliffs when viewed from the top. But when you sit at the bottom of them you feel like a character in a Greek myth, waiting for a giant sea creature, or god to emerge from the deep and punish me for daring to gaze on such natural wonders. 

Rock formations Kayaking Sophie Balagh
Bruny Island's southern coast. Image: Sophie Balagh
A feeling that came close to reality as a huge dolerite boulder loosened itself from its mooring and fell 100m into the base of the cliff.

The crack and the boom were otherworldly, and echoed for what felt like minutes, as was the mushroom cloud of sea mist it left behind. Giant sea caves beckoned us to explore them. Many would emit a terrible roar as the swell rolled in and out. One even blasted us with sea spray for daring to get too close. 

A sea cave blasts Kayakers with sea spray. Video: Sophie Ballagh
A few us foolishly decided to paddle through one of the largest caves, initially disappearing from sight, only to emerge on the other side of the cliff, into a wall of white-water surging across the exit of the cave.
Kayaker through tunnel Bruny Sophie Ballagh
Kayaker navigates through a rocky sea cave. Image: Sophie Ballagh
This is not a trip for the ill-prepared. Although we were blessed with a tranquil, balmy day, as we rounded Tasman Head the two metre south westerly swell was enough to remind you that you don’t do this trip in bad weather.

The constant rebound of the modest swell from the sea cliffs and the fact that there is nowhere to exit your boat until you reach the safety of Cloudy Bay, should repel all but the most well prepared and experienced sea-kayakers.

Kayaking Bruny Sophie Ballagh
Kayaking along the South Bruny Coast. Image: Sophie Ballagh
Other than a lonely cray fisherman and a couple of Pennicott boats, we were the only humans around. But we certainly weren’t alone.

We had countless species of seabirds and curious and playful seals as companions. The sea kelp was mesmerising as it swayed rhythmically below the surface. 

Australian Fur Seals "Life on Earth" Bruny Island Warwick Berry
Australian Fur Seals "Life on Earth" Bruny Island. Image: Warwick Berry
The blue of the water was both terrible for its endlessness and stunning all at the same time.

8 hours and 40km later, we were paddling into Cloudy Bay with a sense of achievement and relief, and that warm, lingering satisfaction you feel when you’ve spent a day in nature at its most beautiful and undisturbed.

Friends kayaking Bruny Coast Sophie Ballagh
Four friends share a blissful day off Bruny Island's coast on Kayaks. Image: Sophie Ballagh
... we were paddling into Cloudy Bay with a sense of achievement and relief, and that warm, lingering satisfaction you feel when you’ve spent a day in nature at its most beautiful and undisturbed.

Stephen Karpeles
Stephen Karpeles
Stephen Karpeles is lawyer and public policy advocate who has held a life-long love for the...


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